Once more I decided to visit Austrian Alps – the High Tauern. I was to climb Grossglockner, although this time in summer conditions. The summit itself was not the main objective. I wanted to prepare my body for high altitude – preacclimatization for the upcoming expedition to Pamir.
That is why we chose the higher hut Erzherzog Johann Hütte located at 3454 m a.s.l. and spent there 2 nights.
The route to the summit along technical rocky ridge is equipped with characteristic fixed safety anchors. Every 10-20 m there is a fixed steel rod to attach your rope to. Additionally, in some sections metal rings. For a safe climb, apart from glacier equipment, I recommend 2-3 expresses, 2-3 slings with extra carabiners per team and individually belay device.
The weather was great, sunny weekend and little wind. It encouraged also other climbers. Steep and technical ridge was filled with multiple international teams, which unfortunately sometimes got into each other’s way.
We were not in a hurry and eventually we stood atop the highest point in Austria. The way down was longer than expected due to waiting for other teams in the more difficult sections. In the afternoon we safely returned to the hut. Video link
For those planning to climb Grossglockner I would not recommend weekends because of popularity of the route.