Lenin Peak – 1st part

p1130686fgAfter a month on Muztagh Ata I had to say farewell to my wonderful friends and journey alone to Lenin Peak. I booked transportation through Ak-Sai company. Morning flight Bishkek – Osh, then 6 h by car and I found myself again after 2 years under the shadow of this 7k peak.

Ashik Tash base camp at 3600 m on the Onion Glade looked exactly as I remembered with its yellow tents, big white mess pavilion and surrounding colorful hills.  Having been already acclimatized on the following day after my arrival I went to the Camp 1 at 4400 m. There I joined a 4-man Iranian team. We decided to join forces to cross the most dangerous glacier route to the Camp 2 at 5400 m. We left the camp at 4 am. A full moon lit the sky. At dawn we put on our harnesses and roped up. Slowly we trudged up the hill burdened by our 20-plus kg backpacks. Around noon my companions were slowing down and the blazing sun did not encourage long stops. Cheered on by my fellow climbers I continued alone across the long snow plateau to C2. I made as short stop there, feeling strong I continued up to Camp 3 at 6150 m which I reached around 6 pm. Unfortunately despite favorable weather forecast the wind was picking up speed and it was starting to snow. I managed to pitch my tent and went to sleep.

p1130734gfThe mountain, as if wishing to punish my insolence for trying to climb it in 2 days, locked me in C3. Strong wind and blizzards made it impossible to attempt the summit. Every few hours I had to dig up my tent from new snowdrifts. After 2 days my food started to run short. On the 3rd day
in C3 the weather improved, new climbers moved up bringing news of weather improvement. I decided to go for the summit with the newcomers at night. At 3 am I left my tent – the wind was still fairly strong. Tired by prolonged exposure to high altitude or little calorie intake I was going slowly. After 2 h I turned back feeling weak, making little progress I did not think I could get to the top within reasonable time. I slept a few hours, packed my gear and went to C1. Tired and disappointed at this point I was thinking about giving up and going home. On the way down I met the Iranians climbing to C3 – they reached the summit the following day.  

Down in C1 after I had a good night’s sleep I regained my confidence and wanted another go at Lenin Peak. Despite perfect weather I knew I needed time to regenerate. I went to base camp to get quality rest for a few days on as low altitude as possible.

 

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